Naturally
one of my favourite things about travelling is discovering local foods and
flavours, and within that the most wondrous part to me is the similarities in
various cuisines around the world. It never ceases to amaze me that although
the ingredients and of course the tastes are so different, the techniques used
to create dishes and the composition applied to them are so similar.
On a
recent trip to Italy I had the pleasure of partaking in an Italian cookery
class where I had the opportunity to make ravioli. Italian food is one of those
crowd pleasing favourites, recognisable around the world, loved by literally
everyone I know. The characteristic combination of sweet tomatoes, fragrant
basil, olive oil, breads, cheeses, and pasta, with onions or garlic, and
roasted vegetables is unmistakable however, stood there in this Mediterranean
haven, kneading dough, rolling it out, filling it with delectable stuffing, and
then dropping it into a pan of boiling water, I was transported right back home
to my family and typical Gujarati meal times.
The
number of times I have been sat around the table with my Grandmother, Mum, and
Aunts making various stuffed pastries - sweet and savoury, is uncountable, but
for some reason making ravioli took me back to the classic Gujarati comfort
food, 'daal dhokli'. The daal in question is toover daal or split pigeon peas
which although popular all around India, the preparations vary and are specific
to each region. Most often in Gujarat the daal is cooked down to a smooth soup
and served as part of a 'thaali' with other vegetables, rice and chapattis, but
sometimes it is transformed into a soothing, comforting one pot meal with the
addition of wheat and gram flour 'pasta'. There are two kinds of this comfort
daal - 'daal dhokli' where the pasta dough is rolled flat and cut into large
pieces, much like 'pappardelle' pasta sheets, and floated in the prepared daal
just so. The second kind which I am addressing today, is 'daal potli' where the
rolled pasta dough is filled with stuffing, normally potato based, gently
wrapped up to form a dumpling, and then submerged into the prepared daal.
Although daal
potli is more similar in composition to an Oriental dumpling soup, the ravioli
I was preparing in class reminded me so much of it that the daal immediately
became top of my list of 'home food' I wanted on return from holiday. Normally,
the potli are formed exactly like dumplings - a small portion of dough is
rolled into a circle, the filling is applied to the middle and the dough is
wrapped up around the sides and rolled into a smooth ball. Having just returned
from my Italian adventure however I am feeling much more artistic than that and
have chosen to wrap my potli like ravioli, it isn't necessary, but it just
looks really pretty! I have also decided to fill my potlis with a potato and
fenugreek mixture as I love this flavour combination as well as the pop of
green among the red, orange, and yellow hues of the daal and pastry. Feel free
to play around with the stuffing - I'd love to hear any suggestions! However
you choose to enjoy this daal - as it is, as daal dhokli, or as daal potli in
any shape or form, its zingy flavours are guaranteed to leave you with a warm
comforting glow and I'm sure you'll make it again.
Daal
Potli (serves 5)
Ingredients for the potli/'pasta' dough:
100 g
chapatti flour/wholewheat flour
25 g gram
flour
1 tsp
carom seeds
1/4 tsp
turmeric powder
1/2 tsp
red chilli powder
1/2 tsp
salt
2 tbsp
sunflower oil
100 ml
warm water
Method:
- Measure both of the flours
into a mixing bowl and add all of the seasoning.
- Rub the oil into the flour
mixture and then adding a little of the warm water at a time bind into a
stiff but smooth dough (you may need more or less water but the dough
should be smooth without being too wet or soft).
- Knead the dough for around 5
minutes before leaving it aside to rest at room temperature for 1 hour
while you prepare the filling and the daal.
Ingredients for the filling:
3 medium
potatoes
A large
handful of methi/fenugreek leaves
2 tbsp
sunflower oil
1/2 tsp
cumin seeds
1/2 tsp
methi/fenugreek seeds
2 tsp
crushed garlic
1 tsp
coriander and cumin powder
1/4 tsp
turmeric powder
1 tsp red
chilli powder
Salt to
taste
Method:
- Start by peeling and dicing
the potatoes, and chopping the methi up fairly finely.
- Heat the oil in a heavy
based pan and when it becomes hot add the cumin and methi seeds, allowing
them to fizz in the oil.
- Add the garlic and sate for
a few moments before adding the potatoes to the pan.
- Toss the potatoes in the oil
before sprinkling in the coriander and cumin powder, turmeric powder, and
chilli powder.
- Add salt to taste, stir,
cover the pan and allow the potatoes to cook, stirring occasionally until
they just begin to soften - around 10 minutes.
- Stir the chopped methi
leaves into the pan and continue to cook until the potatoes are completely
tender.
- Leave aside to cool
completely.
Ingredients for daal:
100 g
dried toover daal/split pigeon peas
400 ml
water
Salt to
taste
2 tbsp
sunflower oil
1/2 tsp
mustard seeds
A pinch
of asafoetida
7 curry
leaves
2 cloves
3 cm
piece of cinnamon bark, broken up
150 ml
liquidised tomatoes (tinned or fresh)
2 'kokum'
(dried mangosteen skin, can be substituted with 2 tsp tamarind concentrate or
equivalent)
1/2 tsp
turmeric powder
1 tsp red
chilli powder
1 1/2 tsp
coriander and cumin powder
2 tsp
lemon juice
A small
handful of plain peanuts
Jaggery
or sugar as required
Method:
- Wash the daal thoroughly and
then leave to soak for 45 - 60 minutes in hot water.
- After soaking drain the
water, place the daal in a pressure cooker if you have one, and add the
400 ml water, a pinch of salt and boil for around 20 minutes or until the
daal is completely tender - if you do not have a pressure cooker you can
boil the daal loose but it will take longer and you will need to add more
water.
- Once the daal is completely
tender leave it aside to cool slightly whilst you continue in another pan.
- Heat the oil in a large,
wide pan.
- When the oil is hot add the
mustard seeds, asafoetida, curry leaves, cloves and cinnamon - they should
immediately begin to sizzle and release their aromas.
- After sautéing the dry
spices for about 30 seconds turn down the heat and carefully add the
liquidised tomatoes to the pan - they are likely to splutter so take extra
care when doing this.
- Stir in the kokum, turmeric
powder, chilli powder, coriander and cumin powder, and lemon juice. Allow
these to cook in the tomatoes until the tomatoes begin to dry out slightly
and separate from the oil in the pan.
- Returning to the daal, use a
hand blender or whisk to liquidise it until smooth, alternatively you can
pass it through a sieve and mash out any lumps.
- Add the smooth daal to the
spicy tomato mixture and stir to combine.
- Add the peanuts and season
the daal with salt.
- Now is the time to taste the
daal - it will be really tart at this point so you will need to add some
jaggery or sugar to balance it to your taste.
- The daal needs to be watery
at this stage - similar to a broth as it will thicken as it boils and even
more so once the dumplings are added so if you feel you need to add some
water, add it now and then slowly let the daal come to a boil over a
medium heat.
- Reduce
the heat to as low as possible whilst you assemble the potli.
Assembly:
- To make the ravioli style
potli as I have done take a quarter of the dough and pass it through a
pasta machine up until grade 4 - you should achieve a long strip of dough
through which you can see your fingers (if you do not have a pasta machine
roll the dough with a rolling pin until you can see your fingers through
it).
- Lay the rolled dough on
a flat surface (preferably wooden as this will prevent it from
sticking) and place teaspoon sized balls of the filling all along the
dough, flattening them slightly and leaving two finger spaces between each
one.
- Wet your index finger with
water and carefully dampen the spaces around each ball of fingers - this
will allow the top layer of dough to stick down.
- Roll another quarter of the
dough to the same thickness as before and gently place this over the
ravioli.
- Gently press the dough down
around each circle of filling, try to ensure that no air is left inside
between the filling and the dough.
- Use a small fluted cookie
cutter to cut each ravioli out from the dough and leave aside.
- Repeat until you have used
all the dough and filling.
- Returning to the daal
carefully place the prepared dumplings into the daal, at first they will
sink and then slowly they will begin to rise to the surface - contrary to
making pasta, this does not mean they are cooked!
- When the dumplings rise you
will notice that the colour has faded slightly and they look dull.
Continue to cook the dumplings in the daal until the colour becomes strong
again - this is when you know they are done. If unsure take out a dumpling
and break it open, if the pastry is not cook through return to the pan and
continue to cook.
- Serve this daal hot, as it
is or with some rice and/or poppadum for extra texture.